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Hearkening back to the 1970s, these are clothes for strutting your stuff and looking like you're living large even if you're not -- long, floaty halter dresses in geometric prints; slinky, one-shoulder striped jersey gowns; puffy sleeve blouses worn with even puffier long skirts cinched with leather sashes and finished off with overgrown corsages; zigzag patterned metallic knits and enormous straw hats with the rims turned back. Suiting was a focus, but it was glam suiting, such as a cropped butterscotch satin jacket and matching short-shorts, a sorbet pink satin pants suit with flared trousers, or an over-sized blazer embroidered with bands of silver and gold sequins, worn atop fluid cream silk crepe trousers. It might not have been the most thought-provoking Marc Jacobs collection, but it was exuberant, from the pink, purple, black and gold color palette to the glitter-dusted platform sandals. Top it off with great-looking structured, flap-front handbags, in vivid colors, and this collection should be money in the bank. Australian fashion's pin-up boy Dion Lee just touched down in London Town to make his London Fashion Week debut with a collection inspired by breathing and the movement of air, with shoes by Kanye West, styling by Christine Centenera and a film by Lorin Askill contributing to a so-far critically applauded choreographed performance/catwalk/installation/presentation. The collection of fifteen labour-intensive pieces began with Lee's signature take on tailoring, with menswear-style garments deconstructed to reveal tulle mesh panels that created a familiar Lee dynamic of internal/external structure that ran throughout the collection. Sheer organza overlays (especially those in red) gave an anatomical impression of flesh or soft muscle tissue, while light reflective fringe was draped and woven to give the impression of iridescent vein-like circulatory structures beneath the skin's surface, which isn't as grotesque as it sounds and is actually all kinds of radiant and wonderful.



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